What does designing a bridal collection entail?

We recently launched our new capsule collection "Perles de mer" (Pearls of the Sea). Here, I want to share a bit of the process behind this and other collections.

Of course, even though we are in bridal and custom fashion, like any brand, we want to communicate innovative styles that project not only an aesthetic proposal but also themes that can inspire brides. As a designer, I'll tell you very personally that one of the reasons I dedicate myself to fashion is because I love finding new things in life, and if I don't find them, I create them. I love change, and I believe my curious heart always needs new perspectives. So, the first step for me is to find what I want to express, what story I want to tell.

Sometimes, things are happening in my life that I can immediately draw inspiration from, and I start researching them. Other times, I'm inspired by what's happening in the outside world, and I look inward to understand what I feel and see about it. For "Perles de mer," for example, in nostalgia, I was returning to that adventurous Déborah who discovered herself as a designer in Paris, who fell in love not only with a man but also with a new life project. I was a mermaid who grew French legs and left her "under the sea" to experience that other world she was curious about. Interestingly, this coincided with the new release of The Little Mermaid movie, and there was a whole "mermaid vibe" at the time; so it was impossible not to get caught up in it.

After finding the theme of inspiration, I try to ground it in a way that my own clients can relate to. In the case of my clients, I believe each one crosses their own oceans to achieve their dreams; they are all mermaids who, in the development of their story, become as unique as a pearl in the sea.

Once the theme is established, I do a whole conceptual investigation, primarily visual, on Pinterest, stories, movies, architecture, exhibitions, nature, and well, everything I see. On the other hand, I start translating this into fabrics, so I look at existing options with my suppliers, but I also play with textures to see how we can make the fabrics look different and communicate the theme and emotions. Of course, I check trends; and here it's not just about seeing collections and what people are wearing, but also listening to my clients, analyzing what they are asking me for, and how they want to feel.

With all the research done, I create a mood board (a board of images that will inspire me) and start sketching. At the same time, I begin to model garments on the mannequin or play with fabrics to create different movements or embroidery effects. I draw at least three times more options than the quantity we want to produce (the quantity is defined according to budgets and commercial objectives beforehand). Finally, I meet with my team and we select the final silhouettes that we believe will work best. I also tend to ask for external opinions from people I trust a lot and who I know can contribute with a rich and good vision for Débh Herrera.

We start patterning and creating, and I guide the team because often in new collections there will be things we have never done before, and with which we are innovating and experimenting. Sometimes along the way, we change things because they look better or are more functional. We start with the basics, checking that the silhouette is harmonious and comfortable; and then we move on to the decorations, which include embroidery, drapery, and other details.

At the same time, as the brand's creative director, I start visualizing how I want it to be communicated, so I analyze where I want the photos, what type of light, model, attitude, etc. It's a lot of communication with the photographer, makeup artist, agency, and the people who help us bring it to life.

And voilà! This is the broad outline of the process. We hope you enjoyed it. Contact us if you want to try on or see the looks from the new Débh Herrera bridal collection 2024 "Perles de Mer."

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